Photography For Moms: A Beginner's Guide To Film Photography | RI Family Photographer
Film photography used to be the only way. For most of us, our childhoods were documented on film, whether it be Polaroid, 35mm, 110, or some other film type. Many of us had film cameras as kids, and maybe we took film photography classes in high school or college and even developed those images ourselves.
The digital era has been going strong for over a decade and a half now, and some people don’t even realize that film photography is still a thing, or that film is even made any longer. It’s definitely not nearly as popular as it used to be, but the fact remains that film is still a thing. Shooting film (especially for me, who started on film) is rewarding, nostalgic, and fun. Getting into shooting film, even if you’ve never done it before, is not terribly difficult, and I’ve often shared information with others on equipment, film, and more.
I own a number of film cameras, including those that shoot some fairly obscure film types, but for this blog, we’re going to focus on using 35mm film, which is arguably the most common type, easy to obtain, and offers the lowest barrier to entry when it comes to getting started with shooting film. For me, shooting film is purely a hobby. I don’t incorporate film into my career as a RI family photographer, but I do take photos of my pets, landscapes, and travel photos on film. For me, there’s just nothing like the look of film.
So let’s get started with some basics.
WHAT KIND OF FILM CAMERA SHOULD I GET?
There are a number of choices out there for film cameras. The good news is that there is a wide price range, with some being quite inexpensive. Canon, Nikon, and Pentax will be three of the major brands to choose from, though there are others. My first film camera was a Canon AE-1, which I still own and use sometimes. The two bodies I use the most are Canon EOS film bodies; an EOS 3 and an Elan 7e (which has eye controlled focus…such a cool feature!) I am a Canon shooter, and these bodies take all my Canon EF mount lenses. The controls and autofocus are also familiar and similar to Canon DSLRs, so that is familiar to me. My EOS 3 was my most expensive film body, at about $150, but Canon has some Rebel film bodies that you can get for $20-$30 if you’re on a budget. Nikon also has film bodies that are in form and function similar to their current DSLRs. You can also look at older film bodies from the 70s and 80s. Be aware that for Canon, modern lenses will not fit; there is a separate lens mount (FD mount). Also read descriptions to find out if the camera has an in-camera meter or not. Some, like the AE-1, have a rudimentary meter, but not all of them do. If you’re used to working with a meter, a more modern film body might fit your needs better. Ebay is a great place to get film bodies, and you can also find them from time to time in Adorama’s used section, or at KEH.
WHAT KIND OF FILM SHOULD I GET…AND WHERE DO I GET IT?
The thing I loved, and still love, about film is that every single film stock (type) has its own unique look. Some people like to stick to a specific stock, while others (like me) have a few that they like to keep in rotation. My advice, if you’ve never shot film before, is to experiment! Buy a few different rolls and see how you like each one. Film comes in both color and black and white. I’m partial to Kodak (Portra 800 and Ektar 100) for color and Ilford Delta 400 and Kodak TMax for black and white, but there are so many to choose from. If you’re not sure what a film might look like and want to get an idea before buying, just google the film type and look at the images. You’ll get an idea of the color tones and contrast that the film provides. Note that the film speed (800, 400, 160, etc) is essentially like the ISO on a digital camera. You will be stuck with that film speed for the entire roll, so think about where you’ll be shooting.
My nephew and my dog, spring 2019, using Kodak Tmax 400, EOS 3 film body, and 24-70 2.8 lens
For example, if you’re taking photos outside in bright light and like wider apertures, I’d recommend not using a film rated higher than ASA 400, as most film bodies have shutter speeds that go up to 1/4000 only. Conversely, if you’re shooting indoors, use a film with an 800 or 1600 ISO rating if you can, unless there’s sufficient window light.
Film can be bought on Amazon, B&H, Adorama, or directly from many labs that develop. Some drugstores also still sell film, although they don’t have a wide variety of film stocks. Online is your best bet.
NOW WHAT?!
OK, so you’ve got your camera, and you’ve got your film. Now what? First, be sure the battery for your camera works. If the camera is older, the battery may be dead. It’s still easy to find batteries for older cameras on Amazon, camera shops, or even (in the case of my AE-1) at some CVS stores.
Now, load the film, and start shooting. If you’re using a more modern film camera, such as a Canon EOS body or a more modern Nikon film camera, you’ll find that the metering and controls are similar to digital bodies and the view through the viewfinder won’t be that different from what you’re used to. On older bodies, such as the AE-1, which do have meters but are more rudimentary, you will need to get used to where the meter sits and how it works, as well as some of the controls as they’re a bit different from more modern cameras. If your camera did not come with a manual, you can generally find digital copies online, or even order hard copies on places like eBay.
Kodak Portra 400 film, Canon Elan 7E and 85mm 1.2 lens
Film is much more forgiving with dynamic range than digital, which can take awhile to get used to if you’re not used to working with film. In general, I normally overexpose my film shots by about one stop via the in camera meter to get the results I like, but feel free to experiment.
HOW DO I DEVELOP MY PHOTOS? AND DO I GET PRINTS OR SCANS?
If you’ve developed film yourself in the past and still have the knowledge and the setup, by all means, go ahead and develop your own film. That said, if you’re new to the film developing game, or just want someone else to do it for you, I recommend sending your film out to be developed. My favorite, and the lab I currently use for all my film developing, is The FIND Lab. They have a wide variety of developing and scanning options and will even critique your images if you wish. Dwayne’s Photo (the last lab that ever developed Kodachrome) is also great, and there are some other options, too.
My cat Lionel, taken using Ektar 100 film and 85mm 1.2 lens with EOS 3 body
Nearly all labs will scan your negatives for you; most provide them to you by digital download now. This allows you to have a digital copy and also do any post processing you wish (add contrast, straighten horizons, etc). You can have your negatives sent to you so you can print later, or you can also print from your scans. I generally get 4x6 prints of each roll when developing, because there’s nothing like prints!]
What are you waiting for? Go out and shoot some film! Got any questions? Let me know in the comments.